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FlashForge Adventurer 3 - Klipper / BTT SKR Pico / Raspberry Pi Zero 2w

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FlashForge Adventure 3 - Klipper + BTT SKR Pico / Raspberry Pi Zero 2W Upgrade Updates to this repo are in-progress

Klippventurer logo

Warning: this Upgrade is a Major effort and is recomended for Advanced 3D print users with some electronics/soldering skills only. If you would like to keep your OEM mainboard and wiring, please see the Klippventure project by VioSynthax.

3D Printed items

are available via Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/437968-flashforge-adventurer-3-klipper-revo-6-bltouch-btt

Required Components:

  • BigTreeTech SKR Pico
  • Raspberry Pi Zero 2w (DO NOT attempt to use an older/weaker Pi Zero model)
  • PCB's: AD3 HE and AD3 HE BreakOut Boards.
  • E3D Revo 6 or E3D V6 hotend.
  • Good Quality Ribbon cable - 20 conductor - ~1.5 meters/ 5 feet.
  • 2x9 OR 2x10 Pin IDC Cable Connectors and sockets. *PCB design intended for 2x9, for convenience the 2x10 fits fine if aligned properly.
  • 2x Molex, Micro-Fit 3.0, 43650, 2 Way, 1 Row, Right Angle PCB Headers
  • Assorted JST-PH PCB Sockets and Cable Connectors
  • 2x PCB Mount Screw Terminal Blocks eg CUI Devices TB004-508-02BE
  • 24v to 5v buck converter to power your Raspberry Pi **Not necessary in UART mode between Pi and Pico.
  • Printed Parts

UPDATES:

  • 20 Feb 2024: -Added to original to allow for SKR Pico and Pi Zero combination. -Added method of Y-belt tightening without cutting belt. -Updated bed heat soldering options. -Added STL for Hotend PCB cover with FlashForge logo. -Addes STL for CR-Touch probe mounting -Updated printer.cfg file for Pico. --adjusted driver current to compensate for overheating on long and hot prints, pico pinouts added, pico features refined. -Added wiring/config instructions for FlashForge camera use with Klipper/Pi Zero.

  • 12th April 2023 - fixed filament macros - please see the Filament_Sensor.cfg file for prerequisites

  • 2nd April 2023 - reduced max speed to 100mm/s - any higher results in layer shifts due to the temps getting too high for the stock stepper motors (at least while printing high tempmaterials like ASA)

  • 1st April 2023 - Tweaks to max speed and driver current - the steppers don't seem to like travel speeds over 150mm/s without overheating and causing layer shifts

  • 31st March 2023 - Printer now calibrated and Printer.cfg has been updated.

  • 30th March 2023 - Everything now works!

Videos

FlashForge Adventurer 3 gets a new Brain, Hot-End and Klipper: https://youtu.be/USZoIhBnA24

Sensorless Homing in Action: https://youtu.be/0Acrmv7VkdY

and Printing ASA: https://youtu.be/akCvX6l-e6o

Klipper Features in use:

  • Sensorless Homing
  • Adaptive Purge
  • Adaptive Mesh Levelling w/ BLTouch
  • Auto-Load Filament using Filament Sensor
  • Auto Unload Filament when run-out detected
  • Unload macro for when you just want to change Filament types/colours etc
  • Auto-Extraction Fan at the end of Print (via End G-Code)
  • Working LED lighting

NOTE:

** Alternative Belt Tensioning for Y-Axis ** The plastic idler pulley mount needs to be un-bolted from the frame and remove the belt and idler pulley from the assembly. Take the plastic mount to a vise/clamp, and extend the bolt holes from a circle into the shape of a channel. This will give you approximately 2-3mm of tensioning distance. Be careful to not get too close to the edge and weaken the mount to the point of failure. I am working on designing a printed replacement part for this, but this has been a viable workaround for my variation in this build.

The factory belt tension on this printer is too loose to exceed 1k acceleration and 100mm/s print speeds. To rectify this you need to retension the X and Y axis belts properly (tight is good, but dont over do it). The Y axis is a PITA as it can only be fixed when the printer is fully disassembled. The Y belt is a continuous loop with no tension adjuster. So you'll need to cut out roughly 5mm from the belt and re-install it as snug as you can get it. I then used some "Selly's Power Grip" to ensure the belts dont jump out of the jaws holding them.

If you still have Y axis layer shifting, I recommend replacing the motor with a better quality unit.

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