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Release original Eagle files #1
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Hi, I do plan on releasing the files. The PNG was just to get something out I could make a USB micro version once I move away from hand soldering. If you give me some time I should be able to release the design files soon. On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 11:10 PM, Alex Whittemore
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Ahh, I hadn't considered the hand-soldering question. Since USB3.0 is rated 1.8A, so too are all the connectors regardless of size, however given the much larger pins in the full sized A and B connectors, I can only imagine they will perform better than the smaller cables. They're also totally backwards-compatible with 2.0 cables, so there's that. I'll need to do some current handling testing, but the plugs themselves are DigiKey P/Ns GSB311131HR-ND and GSB321131HR-ND |
I think I am going to prototype a micro USB version on my next prototype run. I should be getting a reflow oven soon anyway. But I would like to try hand soldering it as well. I am getting good at the small stuff. |
I feel like I've seen discussions on eevblog and/or DP's forums about micro You could always try the hot-air setting of a pencil torch (assuming you don't have a hot air station, that is) Alex Whittemore On Fri, Feb 15, 2013 at 9:45 PM, William [email protected] wrote:
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Hmm, well I do have a hot air gun, but it only has two temp settings. Its great for de-soldering though. |
If it melts solder, it melts solder :) Alex Whittemore On Feb 15, 2013, at 10:59 PM, William [email protected] wrote: Hmm, well I do have a hot air gun, but it only has two temp settings. Its — |
LOL ;) |
Hi, By any chance, have you tried the Java app? I wanted to get some feed back Thanks On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 12:22 AM, Alex Whittemore
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Not having the backpack, I haven't thought that far ahead :). But I can take a look! |
I appreciate that you're going the open hardware route, and thanks for the schematic PNG! Although the really USEFUL information is the layout, and specifically hole size (for the BNC holes) and signal arrangement (for interfacing with the data logging/OLED board).
Specifically, I'd like to spin a version of the board that included a full-sized USB B connector. The mini-b connector is probably the worst choice - 1A and it's a very poor connector in general, wearing out much quicker than the micro-b connector (which supports 1.8A on the power pins). But since many tablets and so on now support drawing >2A, and since the OLED backpack supports even beyond 3A out of the box, standard USB micro-b is even non-ideal. My plan is to make a USB3.0 version of this board with a full sized input and output jack, but of course, the proper layout would be helpful :)
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